The quality of Jean-Francois Merieau's wines stands head and shoulders above any Touraine Sauvignon Blanc anyone in the collective wisdom of Cream and beyond have ever tasted. While Touraine is a large region including the appellations of Vouvray, Montlouis, Chinon and many others, it is also an appellation in itself, planted mostly to Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Malbec. Most Touraine is mass-produced, harvested by machine, and of little interest. One of the new stars in the Loire, Jean-Francois Merieau breaks the mold and is one of the few artisans to really champion this AOC. He believes his organic approach and patience with his wines will help to put these wines on the same level as more prestigious appellations. Instead of blending his wines, he produces most of the varietals with which he works in single varietal bottlings, often from a single parcel. To judge by his rich, leesy and varietally expressive Touraine Sauvignon Blanc, he has already achieved this. His sparkling wine, produced from Chenin and Sauvignon Blanc, is aged like Champagne, sur lie (on its yeast).

Vincent Pinard owns vineyards in many of the best sites in Sancerre, including prized holdings in the famous Clos du Chene Marchand. From high quality fruit Pinard makes some of the most stylish and flavoursome wines in Sancerre. The small village of Bue is home to the best wines of the appellation. Although the label is no longer allowed to say so, Cuvee Flores is actually from a very well expected, single vineyard. Vincent Pinard owns vineyards in many of the best sites in Sancerre. From high quality fruit, Pinard makes some of the most stylish and flavourful wines in Sancerre. In most vintages, Vincent Pinard produces classic Sancerre.

In just ten short years this small, organically run estate has risen to become one of the Loire's top ten producers*. Originally under the tutelage of the Foucault brothers of Clos Rougeard fame, Romain Guiberteau grows Cabernet Franc for the reds and Chenin for the whites. The majority of the vines are on the highly prized south western slopes of the hill at Breze, just outside Saumur, on a site that has been in continous viticultural use since at least the 13th century.

Didier Dagueneau was widely known as the best producer in Pouilly-Fume, cultivating and making wine from approximately 11.5 hectares in the tiny town of Saint-Andelain. He was a crusader in the redemption of the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fume. He openly criticized neighbors who overproduce; he took the media on tours of his meticulous vineyards; he once even sent photocopies of his bill for the workers who hand-harvested his vineyards to prove that he is "the real deal." Dagueneau, ever the perfectionist, attended to every detail, from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar. He went far beyond the regulations of the appellation, pruning severely, de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields. Tragically, Didier passed away in a small plane crash on September 17, 2008. As Joe Dressner writes, "The wine world has lost a great vigneron and the world has lost one of the most original, charming and mischievous characters to ever grace a vineyard row." It is easy to talk about Dagueneau in bigger-than-life cliches. He had the presence, the provocative manner, the wit, the bravado, the cutting edge and the courage to take risks. There was never anyone else like him and no one will ever take his place. But all these cliches, no matter how true, miss what was essential about Dagueneau and the contribution he made to viticultural life.

The Alliet family have been vignerons here since at least the time of Philippe's grandfather, but upon his death the estate was divided between two brothers, father and uncle to Philippe. That situation persisted until Philippe took control in 1985, reuniting the two portions once again. His newly consolidated vineyard was not auspicious, however, being exclusively of the lesser Chinon terroirs, a mix of sandy or gravelly soils, which tend to produce wines for only early or mid-term drinking. Philippe himself recognised this; nevertheless, even lesser soils can produce admirable wines with dedication, and the labours of Philippe and his wife Claude paid off; by the early 1990s the wines of the domaine were clearly of great quality. This was achieved largely, as always, in the vineyard, with bud reduction and aiming for low yields, typically in the order of 28 hl/ha for the Vieilles Vignes and other special cuvees, but also in the cellars where Philippe, who regularly travels to Bordeaux, the source of much of his inspiration, keeps a watching eye. He oversees 100% destemming of his fruit which is then macerated for up to five weeks, with pigeage during alcoholic fermentation, before malolactic fermentation in barrique.

There are some winemakers who certainly were also winemakers in a past life. Some, like Gerald Vallee of Domaine de la Cotelleraie, approach winemaking with such an effortless confidence and know-how that we can't help but be amazed. Does he channel, perhaps, that fabled abbot Breton, who on order by Cardinal Richelieu, planted the first Cabernet Franc vines in St. Nicolas de Bourgueil ? Or is it simply that he works far harder than anyone else in the region ? Fantasy makes us want to believe the former, but practicality since we've seen the guy in actionãproves the latter is the answer. The bottom line is that Cabernet Franc at Domaine de la Cotelleraie exceeds our very high expectations. The main reason Vallee stands heads and tails above other producers in Bourgeuil is the fact, as we mentioned above, that he works so hard at his craft. Vallee is only one of three growers in the area who does all his vineyard work by hand. It's fairly easy to take mechanical shortcuts when everyone else is doing it but Vallee doesn't work that way. He uses no pesticides (opting to plow and keep beneficial weeds in between vine rows) and harvests in multiple passes, returning to the fields day after day to pick only grapes that are truly ripe and ready. Vallee compared the concentration and richness of his Cabernet Franc in 2006 to years such as 1990 and 1989, but mentioned too that today his vines are older, yields are lower and work in the fields is even better. While not as punchy and stacked as his 2005, we are especially smitten with the style of 2006 shows the grace, elegance and serious seduction of ripe Cabernet Franc when handled by an artisan who truly knows and loves his craft.

Right in the heart of Anjou, between Angers and Saumur, Château de Tigné is owned by Gérard Depardieu. Depardieu has a real passion for winemaking, so much so that his passport is marked as actor/winemaker. He has his own label, and his Château de Tigné is where he makes his wines. "Wine has soul - it means being with friends and sharing. I don't like wine to get drunk on, or to forget, I like it because it lifts the spirit." "When at the other side of the world, Gérard Depardieu phones five to ten times a day to follow all that occurs and to give his instructions", says Dominique Polleau, his winemaker who manages with his wife Jacqueline, the property of the star. Depardieu has become a wine grower, he controls everything and does not miss a vintage. A structured Anjou Rouge made with Cabernet Franc and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. Supple tannins.

Based near Angers, Denis Goizil took over the vineyard from his famous father Vincent, in the early 90’s. He is one of the top producers of Côteaux du Layon and Bonnezeaux, two of the great dessert style wines of France. Denis has kept the tradition of well made and faultless, sensual, pure and complex wines with amazing elegance.

After his life as a “Golden Boy”, Nicolas Joly came back to the family estate in the early 80’s. Joly produces a trilogy of civilised and most individual white wines made exclusively from Chenin Blanc. He uses biodynamics throughout the vineyard since 1985. All these organic wines need to be decanted prior to being served. The Coulée de Serrant is an extremely harmonious wine with a structure and body like no other white wine in France.