True finesse and precise flavours with a mineral back-bone, this is what characterizes the wines of Domaine Robert-Denogent !
It was at the very beginning of the 20th century that the great-grandfather Denogent founded the Domaine, consisting of a number of small parcels, situated on the best vineyards of the appellation.
A man of conviction and intuition, he was without doubt one of the first in Pouilly-Fuisse to establish the notion of terroir, though not fully maximizing it, as the wines were not domain bottled.
It was in 1988, after studying law, that his grandson, Jean-Jacques Robert took control of the domain. Faithful to his grandfather's philosophy and closely associated with J. Neauport, M. Lapierre and K. Lynch, all three of whom are passionate about 'terroir'wines, he brought about radical changes to the Domaine, giving it its letters patent of nobility. One of the major changes was, without dispute, deciding to age and bottle the entire production at the Domaine itself.
Jean-Marc Boillot is a star of the Côte d’Or:
“Few Burgundians are as talented in producing both whites and reds as Jean-Marc Boillot. Few also have such a clear vision of what great Burgundy should taste like. With no fewer than 21 appellations at his disposal, he manages to produce seductively rich, dense and concentrated whites and reds in all years.”
Per-Henrik Manson, Wine Spectator
Jean Marc Boillot was one of the younger generation in Burgundy who was determined to improve his family’s wines. In 1984, after vinifying 13 vintages at the family’s domaine Henri Boillot, Jean-Marc walked out in protest, intent on producing highly concentrated, rich and ripe wines. "My father and grandfather didn't want to make Burgundies with lots of extraction and concentration" he says. "They wanted light reds, with little colour, and they wanted to bottle the whites very early so they could be drunk fast. Many domaines worked like that back then, making Pinot Noirs that didn't age." Jean-Marc speaks softly, but his words reveal a clear purpose and strong will. "I was aware of our mistakes, but they didn't want to listen to me. They pushed for high yields, short fermentations so the wines would be light and sell quickly. They didn't want to leave this infernal cycle."
Jean-Marc Boillot was a participant in a movement that has changed Burgundy for the better.
He became the winemaker for Olivier Leflaive for the next four years, and at the same time produced wines from 5 acres of vineyards, bottled under his own label. The wines impressed Boillot’s grandfather, who bequest half his vineyard to Jean-Marc. Boillot runs his domaine from his grandfather Henri Boillot’s house and cellars in the village of Pommard. Jean-Marc’s maternal grandfather was the late Etienne Sauzet, from whom he also inherited exceptional vineyards. The soils are calcareous clay, which Boillot has brought into balance by using only organic fertilizers, with biological insecticides. Yields are low, averaging 38 hectoliters per hectare. Now Jean-Marc runs the Domaine with his daughter Lydie and his son, Benjamin, who after his viticulture studies in Beaune has returned to the family Domaine to assist his father in making world class wines.
Domaine Jacques Prieur has been based in the heart of the village of Meursault since the 18th Century.
This Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes is extremely rare and comes from a tiny parcel of 1.5ha situated on the very best terroir.
Nathalie Gublin is the young winemaker there and since she has joined the Domaine the quality has risen to new heights. Domaine Jacques Prieur has a high sensitivity to the environment meaning that they prefer natural than chemical solutions on the vineyards.
This is a tale of two separate properties, but with one very strong link - and that is the genius of Jean Thevenet.
The two properties are Jean's own Domaine de la Bongran, and vineyards named after his great, great-grandfather, Domaine Emilian Gillet, which Jean has rented since 1988. The first Domaine has been in the family for centuries and extends to 9 hectares, mainly in the hamlet of Quintaine which is recognised as producing the finest grapes in the region. Domaine Emilian Gillet consists of two hectares in Clesse and three and a half hectares in Vire and the viticulture here is exactly the same as for Domaine de la Bongran.
Jean would be the first to tell you that he is not a genius, he is simply making wine as his father would have and his forefathers before him. Respecting the land, the wildlife and the vine is his philosophy, allowing the pure grape juice to evolve into wine gracefully and as naturally as possible.
But we consider that he is both a genius and a man of great courage. While many of the Maconnais produce up to the maximum yield allowed by appellation laws (and, on occasions, in excess of it) Jean Thevenet severely limits the size of his crop, in most years producing just a third of the average. The resulting grapes are concentrated with wonderful sugars and acidity. He also picks late, waiting for the maturity of fully ripened grapes. He admits that many of his neighbours think he is mad as they have often finished picking and have their grapes safely pressed and fermenting before Jean Thevenet even begins his harvest
In certain years a percentage of his grapes at Domaine de la Bongran are partially affected by Botrytis Cineria, the noble rot so highly prized in Sauternes and Barsac. From these grapes he produces his 'Cuvee Levroutee' from an old Maconnais word meaning fully ripened fruit. In really exceptional years the mists rolling up from the river Soane so affect the well ripened grapes that Jean is able to produce his 'Cuvee Botrytis' - a rich, sweet and luscious Botrytised Chardonnay. He is one of only two Domaines in Burgundy regularly producing Chardonnay of this style, and it is stunning.
Being organic in the vineyards means the working of his vines is very labour intensive. No herbicides are used and the control of weeds is done by tractor. Jean believes that a struggling vine, whose roots are encouraged to go deep for nutrition, produces the best fruit. The use of a tractor ploughing to a depth of 10 cm helps in driving the roots downwards.
There is so much more to tell of Jean Thevenet's thoughts on viticulture and winemaking but really the wines must be tasted to appreciate the genius of this man. We are delighted to be able to import from both Domaine de la Bongran and to offer our customers some of the finest wines produced in all of Burgundy.
Michel is the third generation of Colins to make wine in Chassagne and he is among the very best top growers in the village. Yields are carefully controlled and vinification is traditional.
All the wines, including the white Premiers Crus, are bottled relatively early so they retain their freshness and natural acidity. The white wines from this domaine are rich but perfectly balanced with crisp underlying acidity.
Michel has handed over responsibility for the red winemaking to his eldest son Philippe who has been responsible for a great improvement in quality.
Domaine de la Romanee Conti is co-owned by the de Villaine and Leroy/Roch families, the former successors to Jacques-Marie Duvault Blochet who bought the vineyard of La Romanee Conti in 1869, the latter since acquiring the shares of other descendants of Duvault-Blochet in 1942. The Domaine is today run by Aubert de Villaine and Henri-Frederic Roch. Many people in Burgundy just refer to 'DRC' as 'the Domaine' The domaine has 25 hectares of vineyards, all Grand Crus. As well as the the 1.8 hectare monopole La Romanee Conti, the Domaine purchased its other monopoly, La Tache, in 1933, along with significant holdings in the grand crus of Richebourg, Romanee St Vivant, Grands=Echezeaux, Echezeaux and Le Montrachet at various points in the 19th and 20th centuries. The Domaine is the largest owners of each of the red wine grand crus. The wines are made by Bernard Noblet in succession to his father Andre Noblet. Whole clusters are used (no destemming) with a long vatting time avoiding excesses of heat.Yields are mind numbingly low and the winemaking is traditional and perfectionist. These are not merely among the most sumptuous wines of Burgundy but certainly the most stylish. Ancestor Jacques-Marie Duvault Blochet was an advocate of harvesting late in order to ensure optimum ripeness, a philosophy to which his descendants adhere today
Six generations of wise decision making and methodical acquisition of prime vineyards (115ha), combined with over 20 years of pristine winemaking and driven management by Francois (in charge of the vineyard since 1978), have made Bourgognes Faiveley one of the most respected and important properties in Burgundy today.
Domaine Michèle and Patrice Rion, a small, family-run winery located just below the slopes of Nuits-Saint-Georges, was created in 1990 by Patrice and his wife Michèle, starting with only one hectare of vines. Currently, the Domaine has 6 hectares of vineyards with five different appellations. Patrice is the oldest son of a wine-making family from Vosne-Romanée. Until 2000, he was the winemaker at Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils, and he has been making wine since 1977.
The vineyards owned by Domaine Michèle and Patrice Rion are farmed biodynamically: they avoid harmful chemical additives such as synthetic insecticides and pesticides. Only organic fertilizers are used, in order to keep the soil's natural fauna in proper balance. The crop is severely restricted as small yields mean more concentrated, higher-quality grapes. The vines, which range from 25 to 65 years old, produce world-class fruit: small berries with thick skins that produce deeply coloured, tannic and complex wines.
Substantial and rich Domaine Michèle and Patrice Rion, a small, family-run winery located just below the slopes of Nuits-Saint-Georges, was created in 1990 by Patrice and his wife Michèle Offer only applies when purchasing 12 items or more. |
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