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Clos Sainte-Sophie is one of thirteen officially recognised Clos (a single vineyard marked out by a drystone wall) in Champagne. While many, including the more famous Clos de Mesnil and Clos des Goisses, are found in the Côte des Blancs, Clos Sainte-Sophie is the only one found in the Aube. Its quality has been recognised for centuries, and the chalky soils continue to produce a wine of profound complexity. Emmanuel Lassaigne is one of Champagne's most exciting growers. He is hotly tipped by critic William Kelley for his "powerful and vinous but also racy and electric" style of wines. He owns just 3.5 hectares of old vine Chardonnay in the unsung village of Montgueux in the Aube, and his wines have done much to put this region on the map. In 2002 he had just two customers, so to have gone from there to now be recognised as one of Champagne's greats is no mean feat. He neither fines or filters, and uses very minimal sulphur dioxide.
A strong-willed man, Emmanuel Lassaigne has made remarkable efforts in giving the terroir of Montgueux a new lease of life, and he shows no sign of taking all the credit for it. He simply continues to produce rare Champagnes that show consistent elegance, and the characteristics of his terroir.
